For the past four years, this country, the smallest in South America with a population of 6.1 million, has undergone a magical transformation, from murder capital of the world to safest country in South America, with a 70% drop of the crime rate, now the same as Canada’s. It’s people, formerly held hostage and tortured by gangs, can freely congregate again, leave their houses after 6 pm, and visit neighboring districts.

  This miracle was achieved by a young, energetic president named Bucaye Bukele, who looks more like a rock star than a politician. He got rid of corrupt officials and judges, empowered law enforcement and the military, and put some 40,000 gang members in a special prison. On Sunday, he was reelected with an overwhelming 87% majority and his “New Ideas” party won 58 of the 60 parliament seats. 

This new exuberant spirit was present everywhere on Saturday night, when we visited the plaza downtown. It was crowded with people, musicians, vendors, visitors to the brand-new National Library, and happy vibes prevailed – four years ago, this would have been unthinkable; the plaza would have been deserted.

The national currency is the US-Dollar.  The minimum wage in El Salvador is $12. Per DAY, for a 10-hour day, including Saturdays. Health care is good and cheap: A doctor’s visit is $20; a visit to a specialist is $35. During the pandemic, Bukele built a new hospital in a matter of three months to specifically treat Covid patients, which kept the pandemic under control.

The tab for dinner at a local restaurant for our party of 10 came to $56! American chain eateries like McDonalds, Wendy’s, Pizza Hut, KFC, Starbucks, etc. are only visited by the rich here because they charge U.S. prices. Groceries are cheap. Street vendors sell avocados 4 for a dollar. If you have a garden, chances are you pick your bananas, mango, pineapple, papayas, olives, and other delicious exotic fruit right off a tree!

The national dish is the pupusa, a pancake-shaped pocket of maize dough filled with beans, cheese, or meat. At the restaurant, they’re $1 apiece. At roadside stands, vendors sell them practically around the clock for 35 cents. One will appease a growling stomach, two will be filling, and three will be almost too much!

The public transportation system ranges from deluxe to chaotic. The airport is brand-new, squeaky clean, and easy to negotiate, but some buses can be overcrowded.  Riding in a pickup truck with 14 people is perfectly okay. We all survived ☺

Out in the country, where I stayed, the rooster crows at 5 am, sometimes earlier. He competes with the loudspeaker of the vegetable truck, who’s also out early. And the barking dogs. They are everywhere here, roaming freely along streets and highways. ☺

“Our” vast beach, about 150 meters from my host’s property, was deserted. The fine black sand is perfect for walking, the huge waves beg for surfers, and the sunsets are spectacular.

Newsflash: A daily after-lunch margarita makes for very long and relaxed siestas!

The weather was perfect, 85-90F and full sun every day. We barely noticed the 5.5 earthquake on Day 5, although the heavy winds blew some fronds off the palm trees.

 The hospitality not only of my hosts, but also their extended family was overwhelming, and I’m so grateful. I felt very welcome and safe – the biggest danger I was in was when lounging by the pool – I could have easily been hit by a coconut falling off one of the trees (but thankfully, that didn’t happen ☺).